Types of Modeling
The market determines what models are needed. These needs
tend to cluster into market segments and allow us to look at types of models.
It is important to understand the type of model you want to be. By
understanding the type of modeling you are interested in you can learn what the
requirements are and if you can meet them. This also helps in avoiding getting
ripped off (more about this on the scam page). I have seen the greatest number
of rip-offs and bad business decision happen when a wannabe model is thinking
of one type of modeling (usually high fashion) and a scout, agent,
photographer, etc. is recruiting for another (life style, Playboy glamour). So
it is very important you understand what type of modeling you are interested
in.
Fashion Modeling
The Garment and Beauty product industries are large users of
models. People want to see what clothes or beauty products look like on
somebody. Your high-fashion, designer-label garments, are designed for what
fashion designers view as the "ideal woman." This is someone tall and
slender, somewhat leggy, with a swan like neck and very young. In major markets
like New York, this is someone who is 5'9" to 6' tall and from a size 8 to
a size 0 depending on what is in. For men it is at least 6 foot tall and a 40
regular - of course, you have to have that "look" to go with the
clothes. In secondary markets we would like to have this but often work with
fashion models that don't meet these measurements. It is more important you
just have a look of being tall and slender and that the sample clothes will fit
you. The "look" can run from classic beauty to some extreme looks for
fashion.
If you are going to work in front of the camera you need to
be photogenic, and this you won't know until you do a test shoot. Usually the
face is oval shape, with symmetry to the facial features. Eyes are almond
shape. The cheekbones should be strong and nose straight and proportioned. Lips
should be full. All of this just puts you in the general category; from there
it is a matter of what the market demands are.
On the money - Top New York High Fashion models (there are
just a handful of these folks) make more money then any other models (I have
seen incomes as high as eight million a year). By contrast a model doing a
fashion show at a local mall may get paid nothing. This shows the wide range of
income one might expect in fashion modeling. Most folks who try to make it as
fashion models will earn almost nothing so don't quit your day job.
Types of Fashion modeling:
FASHION EDITORIAL MODELING - Vogue, Elle, Glamour, Cosmo,
etc. - these and many other magazines today that focus on fashion have lots of
editorial pages they must fill each month. Many of these editorial pages
feature models wearing what the magazine thinks will be the next trend in
fashion. Editorial work does not pay as well as other types of high fashion
modeling but it is great for building a model's reputation and getting tear
sheets for one's portfolio. Also, because fashion magazines are not as
constrained as advertising work, they can use more 'extreme' and 'special
beauty' models in their pages.
FASHION RUNWAY MODELING - Clothing designers traditionally
show their new collections twice a year (Fall and Spring) to perspective
(store) buyers. (buyers is a key word here, if some one is putting on a fashion
show without buyer then it is entertainment) As an example, the New York Ready
Wear shows just finished with 110 designers presenting collections for Fall
2000 (post 9/11 the number of designers has fallen 30%, note 2010 slow economy
has not been kind to the fashion industry). Designers present these collections
to a gathering of buyers by sending models down a walkway or runway. How well a
model brings the clothes to life and shows important features of the garments
can determine how well they sell. So it is worth it to a designer to have the
most ideal models show these collections. This leads to why models have to meet
very strict requirements and why they get such high fees for this type of work
(modeling agencies have also forced up fees). These young models tend to be
very tall, slender and move very well in clothes.
FASHION CATALOG MODELING - There are a lot of clothing
catalogs produced. (I know because my significant other gets most of them and
tries to keep them all in business by constantly buying from them.) These
catalogs, whether business-to-business, store, or direct marketing, require
models to pose in the clothes they are trying to sell. Generally, catalog
models are picked for a project because they represent the ideal of the market
segment for which that catalog is targeted. Often times this is the classic beauty
- tall, slender, healthy, and beautiful. The marketing idea is for
transference, i.e. if you buy these clothes you will look as nice as the person
pictured in the catalog. Catalog modeling usually pays well because of the
volume of photos that must be taken. When I was sharing space with a couple of
photographers who shot for a department store chain they could be shooting for
weeks with models to produce at catalog.
FASHION PRINT MODELING - This is fashion and beauty for print
advertising. It can be display ads or collateral print materials. This is the
most demanding work to get but pays the best because of usage and exclusives
(this is where models make millions). These are the ads that can make or break
a designer's reputation. With these ads it is very important that the concept,
photo, and model work perfectly to convey the 'image' that is wanted.
FASHION SHOW ROOM MODELING - Modeling for buyers in the
designer's show room. This is lower pay but very regular work, it could even be
a full time job. Only happens where there are designer show rooms.
FASHION LINGERIE MODELING - Because this type of modeling may
be more revealing it requires very good body tone and proportions.
FASHION BATHING SUIT MODELING - Again, more revealing
requires excellent body tone and a healthy look. A number of years ago (like
30, boy am I getting old) we had Jantzen and White Stag here in Portland. Back
then I was a competitive swimmer and they would come around the pool and hire
models from the swim team - in this case the models were very fit.
FASHION FITNESS MODELING - As health and fitness has moved
more into the public consciousness a greater demand has grown in this type of
modeling. Of course being in the city with the corporate headquarters for Nike,
Adidas, and Columbia Sportswear makes it very noticeable here. Where once
everyone exercised in baggy gray sweats, fitness attire continues to evolve and
become more everyday wear. Add to this all of the fitness, health, and outdoor
lifestyle magazines that are on the newsstands and you have a fast growing
category for modeling.
FASHION FIT MODELING - Fit models have the perfect
proportions for a given clothing size. Garment manufactures and designers hire
fit models to use to piece together new creations, see how they move, and
develop their patterns. The key for a fit model is to never gain or loose an
inch. A clothing manufacturer may hire a fit model as a permanent salary
position. It is one type of legitimate modeling that you can see advertised in
the classified section of the newspaper. I used to see ads for fit models in
our local newspaper for Jantzen and Pendleton, but no more.
FASHION TEAROOM MODELING - This once was very popular (the
'80s) in smaller markets. Usually it would be at ladies' luncheons where models
would wander between tables wearing designer clothes from local fashion
boutiques. The models would describe the outfit they wore and where to buy it.
Not big bucks, but a place to start and gain confidence in a small market.
FURTHER DIVISIONS - These categories can have further
sub-categories for size - petite and plus, and for age - children, preteen, and
mature. Petite size models usually are 5'2" to 5'6". Plus size is the
same height as standard size models but size 14 -16. Main stream models usually
start in around 14 years of age and go to their early twenties. Obviously
pre-teen is before this age and mature is everything after it.
A category of modeling will only be found where there are
clients to support it. Since almost all of the fashion magazines are based in
New York, that is where you will find work in the fashion editorial modeling
category.
Body Part Modeling
Body part modeling is a special category that belongs in both
fashion and commercial modeling. This is the use of just part of the body in a
photograph. Often standard models that look great in full-length shots or
headshots don't look so good close up. Their hands or feet may look horrible.
This is where the body parts model comes in. We will set up a shoot using the
standard model's face but the body part model's hands and it looks like it is
just one person. Usually body part models will specialize in just one part of
the body like hands, feet, legs, ears, or neck.
Hand models are one type of body part model that I have had
more call for. With hand models we look for long slender graceful hand and
fingers. We also look for smooth (no wrinkles, hair or large pours), clear (no
blemishes or irregular color) skin, and very good nails. The ability to pose
the hand in a relaxed graceful fashion is very important. This is like a hula
dancer that can tell a story with their hands and avoid what I call "the
claw" that most folks produce when put in front of the camera.
Body parts model follow a similar path as regular models with
finding modeling agencies, building portfolios and having comp cards. They
simply pursue a very special niche market.
Commercial Modeling
Commercial modeling is sort of the catch all for everything
that isn't fashion and isn't glamour. It is vast and diverse. The physical
requirements can vary greatly. The 'look' can be mom, business executive,
scientist, glamorous beauty, etc. The pay can be good but not to the level of
the top fashion model and commercial models tend to find work less often. But
it can be an area on can work part time at their whole life. Again, the purpose
is to sell something - a product, service, or idea.
Some Categories of Commercial Modeling are:
COMMERCIAL PRODUCT MODELING - Generally we are generating a
photo to sell a product and the model is used to show how the product is used.
Also, model may be used to convey an image about a product. An example would be
a model dressed like a doctor holding a blood pressure device. This gives an
image of medical authority being behind the product. There is also the old
Madison Avenue technique of selling a product by putting someone attractive by
it. Although it may not be politically correct to do this, it still is done and
it works. People stop to look at a pretty face, not at another vanilla computer
box. The physical requirements and look for commercial product modeling can
vary a great deal. It all depends on the image or story you are trying to tell.
This is where character models are used.
COMMERCIAL LIFESTYLE MODELING - Models are used in photos
showing a period of life or doing something in life. The photo might be an
older couple walking on the beach and the photo is used in the advertising
materials for a new retirement resort. Or a photo of a young couple playing in
a park with their children and the photo is used in an ad for a life insurance
company. The models are used to act out some concept or idea of life. The
physical requirements, age, size, etc. can vary greatly. But most often they
use the "beautiful people" in these photos rather then real folks off
the street.
COMMERCIAL CORPORATE MODELING - Corporate modeling is like
Lifestyle but it always has a business theme. Again physical requirements can
vary greatly, but usually attractive people are used - although sometimes character
models are used.
PRODUCT DEMO - In smaller markets this seems to be a favorite
area to start models. Models stand in front of, or in a store or mall, and hand
out free samples of something. The idea is they want someone attractive that
people will be drawn to and will work for just a few hours or a few days. When
you are young and starting out this pays better then any regular job and it can
really build your confidence around people.
TRADE SHOW MODELING - Once again attractive people are
attention getters. When a trade show comes to town some exhibitors may hire
models to hand out literature at their booths. One of the classics examples of
this is the auto show. Again, it gives some income when you are starting out
and gets you in front of the public.
SPORTS/ATHETICALLY PROFICIENT/FITNESS - This is kind of
lumping a lot together but this has been a growing area in modeling. With sport
attire companies like Nike and the increase number of personal sports, fitness
and outdoor magazines the need for models that look like they actually know
what they are doing has grown. The idea is to look good and actual be
proficient at the activity being photographed.
HOBBY MODELING - This is modeling for the fun of it, to help
out a cause or a place to get started. Some folks may never make a living at
modeling but enjoy being in front of the camera or being on the runway. It also
ties in with organization that might put on a fashion show as a fundraiser.
There have also been cases where some one may start modeling just for fun and
this may some day lead to a career.
ALTERNATIVE MODELING - This term has been coined for the
whole gothic/punk modeling. This is a very specialize niche
WARM BODY MODELING - This is my own term (unflattering as it
is) . This is where you just need someone to put in a photo. When doing an
outdoor tourist bureau type photos you often find you need someone hiking a
trail or standing at an overlook, this is where you need a warm body to help
animate the photo. This type of modeling does not pay much and may even be done
on spec, but if you like doing outdoors or tourist activities it is a chance to
make a dollar while having fun. This type of modeling can be open to all ages
and sizes.
Glamour Modeling
I am getting a lot of young visitors (under 18) to this site
so I won't go into this too deeply. Glamour modeling is modeling for photos
with a sexual theme. This might be a simple cheesecake or beefcake photo. They
can include bikini, sexy outfits and lingerie modeling. On the cheesecake level,
photos can be used for calendars, posters, and other pin-up girl products. You
can't pick up a car magazine without seeing a babe by the car or truck. As one
moves to greater states of undress you move to the adult entertainment industry
with high-end men's magazines like Playboy and then on down to the low-end
back-ally magazines. But it is the Internet that dominates this field and is
now loaded with all levels of sexual model photos. Glamour modeling and its
triple X component is a very big industry. Top glamour models can make as much
as top fashion models. But what is different from other types of modeling is
all grade levels in glamour modeling can make good money and it is common for
an established model to make over $100,000 a year. There are no height or size
requirements as in fashion modeling. Where fashion modeling wants you to look
like a beanstalk, glamour modeling wants you to have curves like a young Pamela
Anderson. Where fashion may want a 'special beauty look', glamour modeling
wants traditional drop dead gorgeous; where fashion really only happens in New
York, glamour can happen anywhere and does.
You have to be over 18 to do glamour modeling even
cheesecake. With the way the laws are today a photographer runs a real risk
doing any kind of sexy photo with someone under 18. With news story reporting
mothers are being thrown in jail for photographing their own children taking a
bath and putting the photo in a family album, I think the risk is too great and
the return too small to do any glamour work with someone under 18. But this
field is wide open once one is of legal age. Unlike fashion modeling where you
career is over by the time you are 30 with glamour your career could be just
getting started. There is even demand for good looking grandmothers in their
50's and 60’s.
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